From Bellydance to Burqa - My experience teaching bellydance in Kuwait Part One

Some of my students were just complaining about the recent heatwave in Los Angeles. Yes, it's hot, but for me, nothing can compare with the heat caused by wearing a burqa on a summer afternoon in Kuwait.

My journey to Kuwait began 6 months ago when I was contacted by a group of women at the US Embassy living in Kuwait. living in Kuwait.  They informed me of their weekly "bellydance club" during which they practiced bellydance to my Goddess Workout DVDs.  My mission in life is to empower and liberate women through the art of bellydance; therefore, I readily accepted their invitation to come to Kuwait to teach a 3-day bellydance workshop.  Though bellydance originates from the Middle East, it is currently illegal for women in Kuwait to perform it publicly.  There is not a single nightclub, gym or dance studio in this country to keep the ancient tradition alive.  I was told the only type of dancing seen in Kuwait is a folk dance called Khaleeji, which literally translates, to "gulf'.  This dance is performed in a long robe that covers the body from neck to toes and the dancer uses her head and hair to form dance movements.  What is known in the west as "bellydance" can only be found behind closed doors in Kuwait, and the women I met were eager to learn anything and everything about their "lost dance."  As their teacher, I was deeply honored to bring their dance back to them.

I have traveled extensively and I was surprised and delighted to find Kuwait the most unusual culture I've ever experienced.  I spent part of my childhood in Morocco and have performed bellydance in many Middle Eastern countries: Egypt, Syria, Jordan, Tunisia, Turkey, Qatar and United Arab Emirates. Kuwait, however is unique.

As most Gulf States are (except the city of Dubai), Kuwait is a religiously conservative country.  Alcohol, dancing in public and "merry making" are illegal.  Women must cover their bodies in the presence of men other than their husband and father.  Even non-Muslim women must cover their arms and legs. Currently, most women wear burqas ( called abayas throught the Gulf States).  I saw women swimming in the Persian Gulf wearing full abayas.

Kuwaitis receive many government benefits in this oil rich nation, including 0% income tax, guaranteed employment, fully sponsored education and healthcare and a piece of the oil profits. It is an extremely affluent country and shopping is an integral part of their daily existence.  There are hundreds of shopping malls in Kuwait City and the average woman has more designer clothes than I could wear in my lifetime. In this devout Muslim society, the woman's body is considered dangerous and women carry the heavy burden of protecting male honor.  Every year women die at the hands of their fathers or brothers in so-called "honor killings" that wipe away the shame of a female relative's premarital or extramarital sex (or for simply not wearing a hijab in the recent case of 16-year-old Aqsa who was killed by her brother in Canada). So, after a full day of shopping, except in the presence of other women, they cover up their expensive designer threads with a full abaya.

I had to wonder, why bother shopping if you are just going to cover it up?  It appears confusing. But is it to them?  What does it feel like to wear an abaya?   I was required to cover my arms and legs in loose-fitting clothing as a non-Muslim woman traveling in Kuwait, but I was not required to cover my face or hair. I decided that I wanted to appreciate the daily experience of the women in Kuwait, so I wore a burqa for a day.

 

5 comments (Add your own)

1. Barbara wrote:
Amazing......... amazing. Since I became a belly dancer I have much more appreciation of our American freedom than ever before. it is so great that you are writing this story of your experiences and bizarre they can't dance where the dance originated. Maybe it is our free American job to carry on as dancing sisters from another world, another culture because we are FREE.

Fri, August 8, 2008 @ 9:04 PM

2. oola wrote:
What a profound experience to have. It's good to remember our sisters that while living in opulence can live in chains.
Blissings.

Fri, August 15, 2008 @ 4:08 PM

3. GlimpsingQ8 wrote:
While your article is interesting, I have to say I take offense in your generalization; especially this part: "Women must cover their bodies in the presence of men other than their husband and father. Even non-Muslim women must cover their arms and legs. Currently, most women wear burqas ( called abayas throught the Gulf States)." I have been living in Kuwait for 23 years and I have to respectfully disagree. I see girls in tanktops and short sleeves, in skirts and leggings, wearing all the modern fashion with little repercussions. Here are a few pictures of Kuwait to prove my point: http://truckandbarter.com/images/16581_kuwait-orang.jpg and another: http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tmWfkCWHysM/SB_-SxSLK-I/AAAAAAAAEBs/N1UkTVCtfA8/Gordana+Phtos+006.jpg and another: http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/2005/05/16/international/kuwait.184.2.jpg and so on and so forth.

Yes, there is a recent trend in abayas and such, but it is just that, /recent/. During the 60s and 70s, they were wearing miniskirts and gogo boots to rival the British. My friend's mother told me how she used to wear skirts that were shorter than the width of her hand (she has small hands) and how boys would try to get a 'sneak peek' while she climbed up stairs ('boys will be boys!' she used to say).

This recent trend in wearing abayas is mainly due to an influx of 'new' Kuwaitis, who recently got their citizenship after the 1990s Gulf War. Kuwait is a society divided by social classes; the upper class are usually more 'westernized' in their clothing and way of life. The lower class, which are the recent influx, are more religious-oriented and thus wear clothes to reflect it.

Furthermore, wearing an abaya for a few weeks isn't enough to get used to it. You felt bland and disconnected because you didn't try to find out what are the typical ways of dealing with wearing an abaya; including speaking up.

You're used to expressing yourself a certain way, fair enough, but there are different methods of doing so with the abaya. As said, there are different types of abayas and head coverings; perhaps you picked the wrong one. For example, I know that one of the main ways in which those who wear the eye-slits express themselves is in their eye make-up. Notice next time you're around, it's incredibly over-the-top and complex as they display their artistic skills (depending on your taste) in the single area they have exposed to show-off their unique individuality. Also abayas can come in different styles and there is a trend in 'iron-on' for them, allowing you to customize them and 'bling them up' or whatever to further add to your uniqueness.

Also, if you speak Arabic, you'll find that a large number of abaya wearing women are in fact incredibly dominating, some even have the tendency to emasculate their husbands completely; not all, mind you, but those exceptions are popular enough to be considered a stereotype here. /Also/, nearly all of Kuwait's 'loose women' wear abayas and burqas in order to keep their anonymity and are considered far more sexually aggressive and brave because of it.

There is also a way of holding the abaya around your waist to emphasize the sway of your hips and 'sexify' your walk. Suffice to say you're missing out on a whole lot of subculture that comes with wearing the black garb.

Six months is not enough to get an idea of how a country is or how a culture may form. I don't wear the abaya here and I walk around in shorts and sleeveless top with no harm. I suggest that, next time you do come to Kuwait, if you decide to, that you step out of the U.S. Embassy and go to the malls and the typical hangouts. Get a Kuwaiti girl with you who can interpret things for you instead of looking through the eyes of an ex-pat - because no matter what, they are still ex-pats and may not realize the subtleties around them due to being so used to their own ways of life.

Fri, August 29, 2008 @ 4:47 AM

4. umaransari wrote:
can i see belly dance in kuwait

Mon, January 26, 2009 @ 11:44 PM

5. sumeet wrote:
hey am trying to find out if there is any place where they have belly dance lessons .. of any info pls let me know

Tue, June 23, 2009 @ 3:39 AM

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